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I thought the waves were going to be small like yesterday, I was totally wrong. We got to Hookipa early to beat the crowds but we didn’t need to because the waves were firing. Double mast high sets came from the west, fully closing out the channel. The wind was barely sailable on the inside and nuking on the wave. Perfect! I was the first guy to go out, Mark Angulo was a few minutes behind. I sailed around for a few minutes and then a huge set came barreling through! I caught the biggest wave of the set, probably a bit over double mast, and flew down the line. I set my rail in the water and carved up to the lip, SmacDonalds! Then the rest of the wave started to fold over as one mega closeout! I shot around a section, cutback in the pocket, and dropped down the face with more speed to make it further down the line. As I shot past the End-Bowl the rocks and current made the wave dredge and spit. I blew past a section that hollowed out, practically standing on my inside rail to compensate for the water rushing up the face. I made it to the channel, hit one last lip, and then shot out into the flats to escape the whitewater. I rode the whitewater into the inside of the channel. Mark Angulo was sitting on the inside, taking on the endless closeout whitewater. When the set was over I looked at Mark and said “Swell picked up a bit from yesterday huh.” “A bit.” |
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