"[Josh Stone] streaked down the line and popped a nuts air..."
Oh man, today was the first true swell of the winter wave season and it was sick! I went out, and as I sailed through the break, Josh Stone caught a logo high set wave! He streaked down the line and popped a nuts air that projected out into the flats, I could see the bottom of his orange Goya shimmer once or twice and then with a clean smack he hit the water. That basically set the tone for the entire day! I caught a wave right after that and experienced the ultimate feeling of a crisp turn through a glassy wave, then, that turn transitioned into a vertical slash right up under the lip!
After hours of sailing my Dad finally called me in. I signaled for one more run and I beamed out through the break! I passed over two waves when I spotted a perfect ramp for a backloop. Putting it in high gear, I launched off the wave with force that I knew would taking me really high, as expected. At the apex of my backloop I looked around my shoulder a focused on one little coral head in the water; this was setting up perfect, as expected. I went into a free-fall and my nose stabbed into the water. After a split second of being chest deep in the water my board suddenly shot up out of the water pushing me with it, not expected! I pushed out with my sail to catch my balance, I looked like a clown sheeting in and out until I finally got back on my feet! Yah I went in after that!