"The aura on the beach was insane, everyone was tripping out over the swell..."
Yesterday I got the report early that there was over head waves at Hookipa. I was sure that this was the first swell of the wave season! And calling the first swell is like spotting land after being at sea for what seems like an eternity! First, I felt sheer excitement, I packed my gear at the speed of light and jumped in the truck for the beach! Then, I as I got closer, I started to get anxious! Not scared, but restless to get into action! After being in a flat summer for months all I want to do is get out onto the water!
Finally, my Dad and I arrived at the beach! The waves were over head and the wind was an easy thirty knots! The aura on the beach was insane, everyone was tripping out over the swell and I felt so pumped up to just be there! But I wasn’t there just to watch! I rigged up, headed out, and caught a wave! It was a nuts shoulder and I almost fell off with excitement! I went into my first bottom turn and smacked under the lip! Then I turned back up sharply, went into a 360, and came within inches of landing it! It was a good way to start the day that would be full of sick rides! Oh, and the second thing to know about the first swell is that you have to stay out until you drop!